![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:29 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
The !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! turns out not to have been such a screaming deal.
Turns out the thing is burning/losing oil at an epic rate(a trip to Maine for her family reunion ate 8+ quarts). Cylinder 4 has a random misfire & the plug is covered in some combination of burned oil & carbon.
Doing some research it appears the one problem with these motors is that with lack of proper oil changes the valve seals & rings go bad and they burn oil.
I’m trying to decide between a ring & valve guide job($200+ in parts minimum), or get a junkyard engine and hope that one is in better shape. I’m leaning towards option 2 as I can get a longblock from Pick’n Pull this weekend for $90(1/2 price weekend).
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:32 |
|
Junkyard engine or upgrade to something fun like a 4AGE.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:32 |
|
How about option 3 where you try and sell it for roughly what you paid and pick up something else? I’ve been there.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:33 |
|
EIGHT QUARTS?!?!?!
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:40 |
|
Inb4 Hayabusa swap.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:44 |
|
That's two wholes!
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:48 |
|
Hook up a 50 gal oil drum to the engine :D Take that environmentalists!
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:50 |
|
Drive was 6-7 hours each way and she was putting 5w30 in because that was the recommended viscosity. But yeah. I’m kind of impressed actually, because it isn’t fogging like crazy out of the tailpipe(and isn’t getting in the coolant system either).
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:50 |
|
I’ve been trying for 5 years to import a Prizm in Canada
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:53 |
|
Why?
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:53 |
|
welcome to the two stroke life
option 3 get the cheapest oil you can and top it up at each fuel stop old wisdom 2qts each time and get the cheapest plug you can and change that too or get a non fouler
good luck
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:59 |
|
While the yard route sounds cheaper, my guess if it was in the yard it’s because the engine is no good. It’s a Toyota, after all, there isn’t much you can do to kill it.
Why not try some stupidly heavy weight oil? That’s what I did with an old S10 pickup I had that had a similar issue.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:59 |
|
Sounds like it is 2ZZ-GE swap time...
;)
![]() 08/13/2015 at 14:59 |
|
4A-GE swap?
![]() 08/13/2015 at 15:05 |
|
She needs to get at least 1-2 years out of it minimum before she’ll be able to buy something better. I’m going to seafoam the motor and run a heavier oil to try and limp it along a bit, but I doubt it would pass inspection without either another motor or some motor work to get rid of the oil burning.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 15:07 |
|
I’m hoping to find something that got wrecked rather than junked for mechanical reasons. I’m also pondering picking up a $90 long block, doing the valve guides & rings in that and slapping that in as the best of both worlds. It’s almost like rebuilt!
![]() 08/13/2015 at 15:18 |
|
Unicorn status
![]() 08/13/2015 at 15:22 |
|
Just import the grille & trunk emblems, hubcaps and the air bag. Then slap them on a corolla. No one would ever know the difference.
![]() 08/13/2015 at 16:21 |
|
Well since it is still running, I cant see why getting rid of the engine is the best route. Although you said it would be $90 for a running whole engine??? That sounds like a hell of a deal!
![]() 08/13/2015 at 16:36 |
|
$90 is for the block, head & internals, but I can scavenge all the externals off the old motor.